惠灵顿牛肉(Beef Wellington)有什么特点?真的很难做吗?

第一次接触 beef wellington 是在 Hell’s kitchen 里,当时因为这道菜被 Ramsay 骂死的人不要太多。

后来去伦敦的时候还为了这道菜而定了 Ramsay 的餐厅,然而并没有吃到……

因此我的第一顿 Beef wellington 是自己做的,参考的是 Ramsay 的视频,材料上我略有改动

用料:

牛菲力 beef fillet 300g

蘑菇 100g

意大利火腿 prosciutto 8 张

酥皮 1 张

瓜子仁 1 勺

开心果 6 颗

新鲜百里香 一小把

蒜 3 瓣

竹荪粉 半勺 (此处为调整)

五香粉 1/4 勺 (此处为调整)

黑胡椒

橄榄油

黄油

红酒 20ml

做法:

1. 把盐和胡椒撒在案板上,把牛肉放在上面滚啊滚的把盐和胡椒沾匀。

2. 冷锅的时候放黄油,慢慢加热等黄油完全化了之后到橄榄油,等油烧热的时候把牛肉入锅,所有的面煎变色。这一步的目的有两个,一个是把肉的表面煎熟,产生美拉德反应使味道更香,第二个是先把肉的表面处理熟之后再烤的时候肉就不会太生了。

3. 将肉取出,用厨房纸吸除肉表面的油,并且放凉。

4. 蘑菇,蒜,瓜子仁,开心果切碎(有料理机的可以用料理机打碎,记得只是打碎,千万不能打成糊)

5. 中火把锅烧热,不加任何的油,先将开心果和瓜子碎炒香,然后放蒜炒香,最后放蘑菇,然后把百里香,竹荪粉,五香粉,黑胡椒和盐加进去,炒大概 5 分钟左右的时候倒红酒,再炒 5-8 分钟,炒到蘑菇的水分蒸发的差不多了,不要湿乎乎也不能太干的状态,然后出锅,冷却。(全程中火慢慢的炒)

6. 铺上保鲜膜,然后上面错位叠着铺开生火腿片,再将冷却的蘑菇涂抹在上面,把冷却的肉放在中间,然后卷起来,密封好,放到冰箱里至少放 15 分钟定型。

7. 再铺一张保鲜膜,将酥皮放在上面,将定型好的肉卷放在上面卷好,所有的口密封,用保鲜膜封好再次放入冰箱 15 分钟以上或过夜(最长不要超过 24 小时),一定要封紧,封的越紧定型越好。这一步的目的主要是为了定型。

8. 从冰箱里取出肉卷,尽量让它回到室温,在酥皮外面抹上蛋黄,烤箱预热 200°C,烤 20-25 分钟。

小贴士

牛菲力(beef fillet)如果买一条的话一定要粗细一致。

酥皮如果有把握最好自己做,不然还是买个靠谱的。不要修剪的太狠,比肉大好多最好,等包完之后再把多余的部分去除就行了

我这一版改的地方有几点:

1. 煎牛排的时候加了黄油,我希望这样会让牛排的味道更好一些,同时在后续的冷却时会更容易定型以及粘合性更好

2. 没有刷黄芥末酱,这属于个人偏好

3. 蘑菇酱调味的部分用了竹笋分和五香粉以及一些红酒,当然这也是个人偏好了╮(╯_╰)╭

回国后我在一些餐厅也吃到过这道菜,但是没有特别喜欢的,问题多出在这么几个地方

1. 肉的熟度有问题,由于没办法直观的看到肉的温度变化一不小心就容易烤老了,这对于牛里脊来说真是致命的打击。

2. 蘑菇酱的部分调味的糟糕甚至有些地方都没有蘑菇酱。

3. 火腿选的品类不好,特别咸。

4. 酥皮烤的糟糕。

放一个 Ramsay 的视频,关于如何包肉的部分可以看视频操作会更直接一点。

Fillet of Beef Wellington – Gordon Ramsay

Ultimate Beef Wellington – Gordon Ramsay

海外用户在 YouTube 上搜索关键字【Ramsay beef wellington】即可

其实不同阶段 Ramsay 自己的 Recipe 也是有些许区别的,所以调味上还是看个人的喜好吧。

下面我再放一个 Ramsay 的 Recipe.

Servings: 6
Ready In: 1 Hour Plus

Ingredients
For the Beef Wellington
900g piece beef fillet of even thickness (from the centre cut)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp olive oil
English mustard, to brush meat
.
Mushroom duxelles:
700g chestnut mushrooms, cleaned and stalks removed
handful of cooked chestnuts
1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped
2 thyme sprigs, leaves only
.
To assemble:
8 slices of Parma ham
500g ready-made all-butter puff pastry
plain flour, to dust
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with 1 tbsp water (eggwash)

Method
1. To make this Gordon Ramsay Beef Wellington recipe, trim the beef of any sinew and season well with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over a high heat, add the fillet and quickly sear the outside all over for about 5 minutes until evenly browned, turning as necessary. Transfer to a plate and while still hot, brush all over with mustard. Set aside to rest.

2. For the duxelles, put the mushrooms, chestnuts and garlic in a food processor with a little salt and pepper and blend to a fine paste, stopping to scrape down the sides a few times. Heat a dry large frying pan. Scrape the mushroom paste into the pan and add the thyme leaves. Cook over a high heat, stirring occasionally, to drive off the moisture and intensify the flavour. The duxelles must be sufficiently dry otherwise it will make the pastry soggy; the mixture should adhere easily. Spread out on a tray to cool.

3. Place a large piece of cling film on a clean surface. Lay the Parma ham slices on top, overlapping them slightly, to form a rough rectangle large enough to envelop the beef fillet, making sure there are no gaps. Season the ham with a few twists of pepper then, with a palette knife, spread the duxelles on top, leaving a 2.5cm margin along the edges.

4. Lay the beef fillet along the middle of the mushroom layer. Keeping a tight hold of the cling film from the outside edges, neatly roll the Parma ham and duxelles over the beef into a tight barrel shape. Twist the ends of the cling film to secure. Refrigerate for 15 minutes to firm up.

5. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to a large rectangle, the thickness of a £1 coin and brush with some of the eggwash. Unwrap the beef from the cling film and place it in the middle. Leaving a large enough rectangle to wrap around the beef, trim off the excess pastry. Roll the pastry around the beef to envelop it and then press the edges to seal. Pinch the pastry at the ends to seal and trim off the excess. Wrap the log tightly in cling film and chill for 10 minutes, or overnight if you are preparing ahead.
6. Preheat the oven to 190°C/Gas 5. Remove the cling film and brush the parcel all over with egg wash. Lightly score the pastry at 1cm intervals with the back of a small knife for a decorative effect, if you wish. Place on a baking tray, sprinkle with salt and bake for about 35 minutes; if the pastry appears to be browning too quickly, lower the setting slightly. Leave to rest in a warm place for about 15 minutes before cutting into thick slices to serve, with the accompaniments.

BY 雨前羽街

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